By Landon R. Mayer

Each fly-fishing challenge has an answer. This number of recommendation from veteran teacher Landon Mayer is helping you study your previous error and the right way to adapt to a variety of fishing conditions.

Unorthodox suggestions for universal fly-fishing problems
Covers every thing from fly choice and rigging to touchdown fish
Features 250 colour pictures to demonstrate right ideas

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Extra info for 101 trout tips : a guide’s secrets, tactics, and techniques

Sample text

You are a true friend and a class act for many anglers to follow. The kindness you share with others is what makes this sport grow in a positive light. To Ross Purnell, Ben Hoffman, and Steve Hoffman for including me in the pages of Fly Fisherman and beyond. It is a pleasure being able to share knowledge in such a class act publication. I look forward to more adventures on the water with all of you. As they say, a picture is worth a thousand words. Matched with the text in this book, I would like to thank Mark Adams, Jack Hanrahan, Pat Dorsey, Bob Dye, Angus Drummond, Mark Lance, Phil Tereyla, and again, Jay Nichols and Ross Purnell for the breath-taking images.

They see what is above and behind the angler, not what’s lining the river’s edge. Try to blend in to what is around you and camouflage yourself against the sky, vegetation, or structure. JAY NICHOLS The reel is one of the most important pieces of equipment you own. It’s a misconception that the drag on a reel will not come into play for trout. Yes, some water will allow you to strip line in during the fight. But many of the rivers that I fish have trout strong enough to rip 20 to 30 feet of line off the reel before you can even react, so I prefer large arbor reels with low start-up inertia, a durable build like Ross Reels, and sealed drags to reduce debris entering important moving parts.

I constantly change flies and retie tippets after landing larger trout. I have a tippet spool holder containing X sizes, starting with 0X (for streamers) and continuing up to 3X, 4X, 5X, and 6X. I rarely use 1X or 2X, opting for the strength of 0X instead. For low, clear water, I’ll sometimes use 7X, but I prefer sticking to 6X for the strength. Lastly, always double-check your tools for the day, such as strike indicators, fly floatant, knot-tying tools, and markers. There is nothing worse than gearing up or tying on a dry fly and realizing you have no floatant.

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